Super GemChicago Exclusive Gem$$Robert Maleski, a longtime restaurant server, opened Milly's in 2020 and named it after his grandmother Emily, the one who taught him to cook, while the pies themselves are a tribute to Burt Katz and his Chicago pan pizza: a thick, buttery crust baked until the cheese around the edge caramelizes into a dark, crunchy ring that is the whole point. The business started as a ghost kitchen, and Robert still makes only a limited number of pizzas each day, so the move is to order online ahead or call to check what is left before you show up. The menu reads like a record collection, with pies named No Comply (nduja, ricotta and saba syrup), Leandoer 10 (crème fraîche, roasted mushrooms, pistachio and pesto), Tom's Killing (vodka sauce, pepperoni, everything bagel spice and chili crunch) and a Detroit-style Killtaker.
Tens run about $25 to $29, fourteens $30 to $37, and they come uncut unless you ask, so the crust stays crisp. Seating at this Ashland Avenue shop is first come, first served, open Wednesday through Sunday from 4 to 8pm, with a second Milly's on Broadway in Lakeview.
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