The fruit-filled versions (strawberry, blueberry, cherry, plum) are the ones that surprise people who walk in expecting only the savory potato-and-cheese standard, and a side of borscht or a Polish sausage plate rounds out what's otherwise a narrow, confident menu.
It's a lunch-crowd spot more than a destination dinner, tucked into Wells Street real estate that doesn't advertise itself, and closed Sundays — plan a weekday visit.
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