Super GemChicago Exclusive Gem$$It's part of a small family of Ascione restaurants that has been cooking modern Italian food in Chicago since 2009, with siblings in Hyde Park and at Promontory Point, and the Skokie location is the big one, built for long dinners, weekend brunch and private parties. Handmade pasta is the core of the menu. There's a daily gnocchi from the Gnoccheria, a tagliolini with black truffles and cream that reviewers dream about afterward, pappardelle in a wild boar and mushroom ragout, spicy sausage pennoni and linguine ai frutti di mare.
Starters run to truffle-mushroom arancini, house meatballs over whipped ricotta and an Amalfi seafood salad, and the mains go big: Chianti-braised short rib, lobster risotto, a Polletto with oyster mushrooms and red wine sauce, duck breast over wild mushroom risotto and Tuscan-style USDA Prime steaks up to a 22-ounce dry-aged Bistecca alla Fiorentina. Weekday happy hour at the bar from 3 to 6 brings $7 cocktails and martinis, and weekend brunch from 10am adds ricotta pancakes, Nutella French toast and $19 unlimited mimosas for 90 minutes. Book on Resy; valet and lot parking make it easy.
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